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Perfume companies

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Obscure French Perfume Companies and their Perfumes

In this guide I have listed several different obscure or little known early French perfume companies and the vintage perfumes they produced. I have also included some Spanish, German and Italian companies. Many of these companies were shortlived or only created one perfume. Some companies will be found here as there isn't enough info to warrant their own guide. Information is very scant on these companies. Any extraneous information will be appreciated and will be added.

Erizma, established in 1885 by J. Bijon and created rare luxury presentations. They also were exporters to the far East:

  • 1890 Christiane
  • 1900 Fleur d’avril
  • 1900 Savon a la Heliotrope
  • 1900 Savon aux Violettes
  • 1900 Savon Fleurs d’avril
  • 1900 savon extra fin
  • 1910 Djita
  • Aube Naissante

Guyla, established in 1926 at 40 rue de Paris, Epinay-sur-Seine, they made exceptional rare presentations:

  • 1926 Caresse Parisienne
  • 1926 Divin Narcisse

Oviatt, department store in Los Angeles, California. the Oviatte Building was completed in 1927, and had Lalique glass panels:

  • 1928 Le Parfum des Anges

Felix Boissard, a British-French company, established around 1900 by John-Ernest Jewel, (a probable predecessor in France was Pennes Fils et Broissard). Affiliated to and represented by Heppels Ltd :

  • 1913 Silva
  • 1919 Madelon

Nice-Flore, established in 1919 at 54 route du Var, Nice, France, by Union Francaise de Parfumerie et de Maroquinerie, they sold leather goods and perfumes, some presentations used bottles by Maurice Depinoix:

  • 1919 Brin de Reve
  • 1919 Chypre
  • 1923 Divine Chanson
  • 1923 Tout l'Azur
  • 1924 Jasmin
  • 1925 Ambre

Pierre Dune, established in 1939 at 49 rue de Prony, Paris by Edmond Rosens, the first five perfumes were presented as potted plants in a flower cart:

  • 1939 Evocation de Rose
  • 1940 Sequoia
  • Armorial (launch date unknown)
  • Infini (launch date unknown)
  • Vous Seule (launch date unknown)
  • 1945 Pres du Coeur
  • 1947 Privilege
  • 1947 Clef du Paradis

Maurice Bertrand Carrere of Paris France,established in 1945 at 45 rue Pierre-Charron, Paris, very shortlived company:

  • 1945 Signature
  • 1945 Vent Fou

Les Parfums de Mistinguett:

  • 1921 La Rose de Mistinguett
  • 1924 Gri Gri d'Amour

Monna Vanna, established in 1920 in Britain, then moved to at 120-122 rue Borghese, Neuilly (Seine) France. The name was adopted from the title of the play by Maeterlinck. They produced luxurious presentations. :

  • 1914 Mademoiselle
  • 1919 Lilas D'Or
  • 1919 L'Oiseau Bleue
  • 1919 Magnatic
  • 1919 Pavlova

A. Bertelli (of 26 via Paolo Frisi, Milan Italy), produced pharmaceuticals. Their luxurious presentations were produced in France:

  • 1900 Gran Parfum
  • 1908 Venus
  • 1912 Acacia
  • 1919 Antigringina
  • 1920 Fiori di Campo
  • 1922 Rose Bertelli
  • 1925 Ars
  • 1925 A Toi

Mori of Paris France:

  • 1924 Gardenia
  • 1932 Reve d'Amour

Ramey, established in 1913 at 332 rue Saint-Honore, Paris by Georges Herman as Laboratoires des Produits Radiaces:

  • 1927 Nuit de Stamboul
  • 1920s Minuit

De Luzy, established in 1917 at 5 rue Ybry, Neuilly (Seine), by Progalia SA :

  • 1919 Le Chypre de Luzy
  • 1919 Pourpre Antique or Poyrpre Antique
  • 1920 Le Feu
  • 1925 Frais Jardin

Biette, established in 1892 by Alexis Biette. They had branches in major cites in Europe, Africa and the USA. The produced spectacular soap sets, often humorous. They started introducing superb perfume presentations in the 1920s:

  • 1923 Teindefleur
  • 1926 Pour Ma Mie
  • 1926 Bel Ete
  • 1927 Naciris

Fracy of Paris France, established in 1922. They produced novelty perfumes as well as luxurious Viard presentations:

  • 1922 Silhouette
  • 1922 Fracy
  • 1922 Silvette
  • 1924 Charmeuse
  • 1924 Jasmin Passionata
  • 1924 Rose Jolie
  • 1925 Apine Patine
  • 1930 Bagatelle

Pelissier-Aragon,Les Fontaines Parfums Grasse. Established by E. Alziary, became Alziary Fils in 1850, became Alziary et Barbe in 1863 and then Pelissier-Aragon in 1887 until 1924 when Emile-Andre Pelissier coined the appealing trade name "Les Fontaines Parfumees Grasse":

  • 1918 Bouquet de Chypre
  • 1930 Origan

Lydes of 29 rue Auguste Bailly, Courbevoie (Seine) France, established in 1918 by Eugene Philippe Rodier. Their most successful perfume was their first, Ambre des Pagodes, which interestingly did not bear the name Lydes. The company became well known practically overnight and exported their luxurious presentations worldwide:

  • 1919 L'Ambre des Pagodes
  • 1922 Narcisse
  • 1923 Les Jasmins de Lydes
  • 1925 Diamant Noir
  • 1925 L'Heure du Baiser
  • 1927 Bibelot
  • 1928 Dans la Chevelure
  • 1928 La Fleur du Lac
  • 1920s Arabian Passion

Ysiane of 38 rue d'Enghien,Paris France. Established around 1925 and although the company was shortlived, they managed to produce some charming presentations. They were affiliated to La Diaphane:

  • 1925 Saturnale
  • 1926 le collier de perles

Delyna of 21 rue de la Breche-aux-Loups,Paris France. Established in 1925 by Maxime Patraud. acquired in 1945 by Cuban perfumer Bienvenido Fernandez:

  • 1927 Sensation
  • 1927 Nuit Romantique

Jacques Heim. Couture house of Isidore & Jeanne Heim established a fur business in 1898, their son Jacques introduce day and evening wear in the 1920s and sold perfumes to their clients in 1930 and introduced them to the public around 1945:

  • 1935 Alambic
  • 1945 J'aime
  • 1953 Ariane

Paquin of Paris France, couture house of Jeanne Paquin, introduced perfumes and cosmetics in 1939 and the house closed in 1962:

  • 1939 9 X 9
  • 1939 Habit Rouge
  • 1939 Ever After
  • 1945 Espoir
  • 1949 No. 9

Fragonard of Paris France, established in 1782 and known then as P. Mottet et Cie and Cresp. Martinenq. The company went bankrupt in 1914 and was acquired by Eugene Fuchs, who introduced interesting presentations in the 1920s an dinto the 1940s:

  • 1921 Chale Indien
  • 1929 Xmas'E
  • 1933 Belle de Nuit
  • 1935 Evernia
  • 1935 Pur Hasard
  • 1935 Zizanie
  • 1942 Lancry
  • 1946 Source Bleue
  • 1947 Moment Vole

Rochambeau of New York City & Paris, a Franco-American company established in 1923 by Xavier Rochambeau and Robert Coudert de Saint-Chament. They specialized in French made medium and low priced novelty perfumes, very small and toy like, thin, blown glass bottles for export to the USA. Some of their perfume bottles are tiny glass balls in the shape of grape bunches or little square dice. They were affiliated to La Gourde du Poete, whose style is similar:

  • 1923 Clochettes Parfumees
  • 1925 La Pipe Alsacienne
  • 1925 Jasmine
  • 1920s Fleurs Modernes
  • 1920s Gourde de Poete
  • 1920s Mon Ideal
  • 1920s Mimosa
  • 1920s Jasmine

Lerys of Paris France, established in 1921 by Leon Bellon, produced luxurious presentations:

  • 1922 Belle Jolie
  • 1924 Or Brunie
  • 1926 Le Presentoir
  • 1926 Happy Days
  • 1927 Chypre
  • 1927 Pour Blonde
  • 1927 Pour Brune
  • 1928 Lucidite

Doeuillet-Doucet of Paris France, couture house formed y merger of Doeillet and Doucet in 1929 and the company closed in 1932:

  • 1929 Mareva

Jaspy of Paris, established around 1919 and subtitled "Parfums Modernes et Originaux" :

  • 1921 Buisson Fleuri
  • 1921 Kadoura
  • 1921 Muscadin
  • 1921 Myrodata
  • 1921 Rose de Chemin
  • 1922 Le P'tit Chose
  • 1924 Jasmin
  • 1924 Latulipe Noire

Murcy:

  • 1920 Un Chypre Inconnu
  • 1920 Un Muguet des Bois

Sari:

  • 1923 Eros
  • 1926 Lune de Miel

Charles Fay, established in 1850 by Charles fay and called Maison Fay. They were best known for their powder Veloutine, and therefore changed their name to Parfumere Veloutine. They won a gold medal at the 1900 Exposition:

  • 1920 Parfum Les Trois Muses, La Danse
  • 1936 Absolute Essense of Gardenia

Marques de Elorza of Paris France, established in 1926 by Avran Moscivici, produced luxurious presentations in the 1920s, then after 1930, perfumes of lesser quality were produced:

  • 1920 Argentina
  • 1929 Bleu Blanc
  • 1929 Legion d'Honneur
  • 1929 Maitresse
  • 1929 Marche Nuptiale
  • 1929 Valencia
  • 1951 Aperitiff
  • 1951 Spring Madness
  • 1951 Taj Mahal
  • 1951 White Enchantment
  • 1955 Ming Jade

Parfums Loulette:

  • 1925 Mimosa
  • 1919 Femme Divine

Bryenne of Paris France, established in 1911 by Jacques Brach:

  • 1911 Heure Exquise
  • 1918 Chu Chin Chow
  • 1920 Le Lilas
  • 1927 Mabrouka
  • 1927 Sentimental
  • 1927 Ambre Persian
  • 1929 Brenny

Dorin, established in 1780 as a small cosmetics shop specializing in theatrical makeup, by famous actress Mademoiselle Montansier. Company was bought and sold several times and fell into the hands of JM Dorin in 1817. They exported world wide and won the gold medal in 1900:

  • 1870 Poudre Grasse (face powder)
  • 1910 Cloches de Mai

Gal of Madrid Spain, established in 1900 and produced many luxury presentations and cosmetics:

  • 1912 Heno de Pravia
  • 1913 Dens
  • 1917 Flores de Talavera
  • 1917 Agua de Colonia Aneja
  • 1920 Imperial Toledo
  • 1923 Jardines de Espana
  • 1924 Alma
  • 1924 Pravia Hay
  • 1924 Talavera Flowers
  • 1925 Aromas del Pais
  • 1930 Granada Mia
  • 1948 Marisol

Moiret of Paris, made perfumes during the 1920s:

  • 1925 Beaucaire
  • 1920s Circe
  • Le Prestige

JG Mouson & Co (of Frankfurt Germany):

  • 1798 Mouson ,reintroduced in 1954
  • 1921 Tai-Tai
  • 1925 Antiqua
  • 1930 Maronquin
  • 1935 Mit der Postkusche
  • 1940 A Tout

Claire of Paris France, elegant Paris shop specializing in luxury fashions and perfumes, established in 1924 by Rodney Wanamaker (a mamber of the founding family of John Wanamaker, department stores in the USA):

  • 1923 Le Beau Narcisse
  • 1927 Memorie
  • 1928 Fascination
  • 1929 Numero II
  • 1932 Oree

Mme A. Girard et Cie of London, small prestigious company established in the late 19th century:

  • 1890 Violette de Parme
  • 1900 Trefle
  • 1914 Mandragore

Jean Giraud Fils, established in 1853 as Giraud Freres, later known as J. Giraud Fils, acquired by various essential oils producers in Grasse, such as Honore-Joseph Sozio in 1900. They had large exports to South America:

  • 1922 Bouquet Royale
  • 1922 Dans la Nues
  • 1922 Fleur de Jasmin
  • 1922 Fleur de Rose
  • 1922 Japtis
  • 1922 Parfum Reve
  • 1922 Lysmina
  • 1922 Mariana
  • 1922 Odorantis
  • 1922 Mysteriose
  • 1922 L'Oeillet
  • 1923 Maflor
  • 1927 Odorantis

Nissery of Asnieres, (Seine) France, established in 1921 by Jules-Joanin-Anatole Muraour. The company was affiliated to Mury. They produced elegant presentations:

  • 1922 Le Cyclamen
  • 1925 Coeurs et Fleurs

Agnel of Paris France:

  • 1910 Mon Deux Pays
  • 1913 Dolly
  • 1920 Fete de Nuit
  • 1923 Myrianthis

Louis Avenel of Paris, established in 1900 and had major exports to Great Britain. Some of their presentations featured Viard bottles:

  • 1913 Thais
  • 1913 Gaby
  • 1920 que veux-tu?

Lioret:

  • 1928 Chypre
  • 1928 Muguet
  • 1928 Narcisse

Rodin of Paris, established in 1946 by Norman SARL:

  • 1946 Saree, (also sold as Saree by Norman)

A. Euziere of Grasse, France, established in 1887 as Societe Euziere et Seytre. Became henri Euziere et Cie in 1920, created some suberb presentations featuring Viard bottles:

  • 1911 Violette
  • 1924 Source Bleu
  • 1925 Atakor

Griet (of Buenos Aires,Argentina):

  • 1925 Locion Mirka
  • 1932 Chela
  • 1940 Nantes 18

Clamy of Paris France, established in 1913 by Philippe de Back as Les Parfums de Clamy, The presentations featured luxurious Gaillard bottles. The company was acquired by Grenoville in 1943.

  • 1913 Bleuet
  • 1913 Qui M'Aime?
  • 1927 Femme Ailees
  • 1928 Aire de Ailes
  • 1928 À Tire d ’Ailes
  • Audé Diapée

Coudray of Paris France, established in 1810 as a small cosmetics and perfume shop called Maugenet & Coudray. They became a major exporter during the 19th century and remained a family business until 1908 when Edouard Colmant acquired an interest. The company produced many luxury presentations:

  • 1919 Je Vous L'Offre
  • 1919 Le Trio
  • 1929 Reve de Paris
  • 1930 Charme de France
  • 1930 Onyx Noir

Maudy of Colombes (Seine) France, established in 1928 by Adrienne Foym affiliated to de Musset and produced luxury presentations:

  • 1927 Chere Petite Chose
  • 1928 Muguet

Drecoll, courture house in Paris,introduced perfumes in 1927 , then from 1929, sold perfumes under the Maggy Rouff name. Marcel Guerlain purchased Drecoll in 1944:

  • 1925 Tais-toi-mon Coeur

Plassard of Paris France, established in 1815 as Demarson, later Demarson et Cie. Demarson-Chetelat and Chetalat et Cie. The company exhibited regularly in 1819, 1839, 1844, 1849, 1855, 1867, and 1878, under the various names over the years. they were awarded many prizes at the exhibitions. Louis Plassad purchased the company in 1894 and renamed it L. Plassard. their most impressive presentations were before 1930, after 1930, their quality lessened:

  • 1911 Une Femme Passa
  • 1927 De Fleur En Fleur
  • 1928 Dyne
  • Avrilleé
  • Bagatelle

Marquis of Paris, active during the 1920s and produced toiletries, perfumes and cosmetics, as well as producing such items for other perfumers and under their own name, primarily for export:

  • 1920 Chypre
  • 1923 Niradjah

Saint Cyr of Paris France:

  • 1926 Homme de Paris
  • 1926 Love in Paris
  • 1926 Toujours Ou Amais
  • 1936 Fleches d'amour

Altair:

  • 1948 L'ete
  • 1948 L'automne

Cadolle Freres of Paris France, established in 1889 as a corset shop in Buenos aires by Herminie Cadolle, opened Paris shop in 1910 as a family busines with fashionable clientele.Their perfumes were introduced in 1926:

  • 1926 Amour en Cage
  • 1926 Apres le Tennis
  • 1927 Le Bois Sauvage
  • 1927 Le No. 9
  • 1927 Reve d'Infante
  • 1929 Magicia
  • 1930 Bien Etre

Maggy Rouff, couture house established in 19th century, perfumes were introduced in 1927 and baccarat was a supplier of bottles. The company merged with Drecoll in 1929, the company was renamed Maggy Rouff in 1930 and Rouff perfumes were available until the 1940s:

  • 1949 Contact

Bruyere of Paris, couture house established in 1924 by Marie-Louise Bruyere and introduced perfumes around 1940:

  • 1941 Caractere

Feel free to email me for details or any questions. I also have a perfume identification and appraisal service here on ebay, click on my Me page for details. Check out the 200+ guides & reviews I have written on perfumes on ebay. If you have found this guide helpful, click YES below. Thanks!Good luck and have fun collecting!

I am always looking to add pictures of vintage perfumes to my guides, if you have a picture you would like to see included here, please contact me, credit will be given to the user ID for any picture submitted.

1 comment:

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